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Here are some pictures of Shimano Symetre and a detailed description of Shimano Symetre. I hope that you find these links helpful but you can always use the search link on the right to find more Shimano Symetre or anything else you need.
got my search down to 2 reels the pflueger president and the shimano symetre rear drag?
please help me Shimano Symetre decied the shimano cost more but cost doesnt mater i know front drag is better but i dont want a decision based on front or rear drag just want a nice casting bass reel anyone own or used these two reels
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December 15th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
Rear drags are not near as good as top drags!Top drags are more precise than rear drag!Most front drag spinning reels generally feature larger, multiple disc drag washers on a quality reel and will give you better control and longer lasting so do check them out.
December 16th, 2010 at 4:39 am
YIKES!!! This is so vague!in general, not species specific, for me, it’s …..RODSGLoomis GL3/IMX (not the GLX – too many times have I seen those shatter from being so thin walled…it’s not worth the $50 I have to pay to get it back from Loomis warranty service), Rainshadow RX7/RX8, Rogue rods, St Croix SCIII / IV, Lamiglas Certified Pro, and honorable mention to Fenwick HMG/HMX/AVREELSShimano Saros, Symetre, Stella, TwinPower, Stradic FH-not the new one…Daiwa Z-CU, Steez, Capricorn A (not that orange XTC crap from Dick’s Sporting Goods), Advantage, SpinmaticQuantum EPTi – still think it’s too heavy even though I like it….
December 16th, 2010 at 4:13 pm
Go for it! Stradic’s are GREAT reels. Can’t go wrong with a Stradic. However, I still think you should move up to the 4000 series. A slightly larger reel leaves you more options like: a larger drag surface and a larger spool- making long distant casting easier and the ability to put heavier Mono line on if you wish. The 2500 is pretty small in comparison. Think about it. Hope this helps? TU’s to GMB.
December 17th, 2010 at 3:46 am
If it’s really a grinding noise and not just a whirring noise, I’d make arrangements to return if for replacement as quick as possible. Gears can make some noise, but grinding normally signifies a damaging noise. Brass and aluminum gears like you find in most reels can’t handle too much grinding.Either return it to the place where you bought it or to the manufacturer.,Good luck with your problem..
December 17th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
The front drag reels have larger drag washer surfaces which provide more control over fighting fish. The only disadvantage is the front drag reels are very slightly more difficult to disassemble/re-assemble for cleaning/service.
December 18th, 2010 at 4:15 am
Any of the reels you listed are good.As far as drag goes, go with front drag, more reliable, and a bigger drag than what is on the rear drag reels.http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AoilMEqT7RE.GMjB_t1E9Szsy6IX?qid=20070711203508AA8r0Xf&show=7#profile-info-1cc1823e52aa000ab1cfe84033ab67eeaa
December 18th, 2010 at 3:54 pm
Where are you Ice fishing?In MN, there are only 5 major things you need to consistently catch fish & be comfortable doing it. #1.) Auger- either an electric, gas, or hand auger.#2.) Shelter- there are many variety’s of shelters; Tents with the floor cut out, Clam shelters, built permanent houses, Etc.#3.) Heat source- A decent propane heater with a low O2 oxygen cut-off.#4.) A decent Flasher- Vexilar makes the most reliable (and cheapest) flasher , (Vexilar FL-8 $300) #5.) Rods & Reels- A small spinning/ice-jig reel with 3-4LB diameter Power Pro or Berkley Ice Fireline.Obviously, you don’t want to go out and spend $6-$800 to get started? Here’s the Budget list-1.) Auger- You HAVE to own an auger. A hand auger works fine for thin-medium thick ice, (6″-2FT). But they require some muscle power and sweat to utilize. The size hole you want to punch equals the size/species of fish you want to pursue. (Example- If your mainly after Panfish get the 5″; if your thinking Pike, Walleye, & Panfish get the 8″; if your mainly after Lake Trout/Large Pike & Big Walleye get the 10″.) However, understand: the larger the hand auger, the harder to punch holes. I suggest you get an 8″ or 6″. Lazer is a good brand.2.) Shelter- If you don’t want to purchase a Clam shelter or cheap tent you CAN just sit in a camp-chair or bucket on the ice. The problem?When you go it may only be 30 degree’s outside, but once you get out in the middle of the lake due to wind the windchill will drop the temp 10-15 degree’s. Do you really want to sit on a bucket in 15-20 degree weather? I’ve done it plenty and it takes all the fun out of fishing! (lol) (Heck, I once almost literally froze my @ss off! lol)3.) Heater- If your gonna sit on the ice get a cheapy heater, (with no O2 sensor/ like a Coleman Black Cat). At least you can keep your hands and feet warm and your hole open. If you decide to get a closed shelter you need a heater with a low O2 sensor so you don’t suffocate yourself. “Mr Heater” is the best brand of portable propane heater’s available, (with low O2 sensors).4.) Flasher- You don’t NEED a Vexilar but , (in most cases), it’s the difference between catching “something decent” and catching nothing or 6″ Perch all day! You can get a used auger for $30, get an old used tent for $25 and cut the floor out, buy a Mr. Heater for $80-$100, BUT having a functional flasher will be one of your most important tools, (in my opinion). Why? 1.) It gives you depth readings so you can find the exact place where drop-offs & lake structure are located, (in some cases you can be 6 FT off of a drop-off or a school of fish and you won’t get a bite).#2.) In “real time” you can watch your ice-jig and entice fish by actually jigging and watching fish hit, (in most cases you can watch fish hit your jig and know when to strike them).#3.) Being able to see “thermoclines” is very important in ice fishing. Usually fish hover around the thermocline, if you have a Vexilar you can know exactly where (and at what depth) to drop your jig or jig/minnow.Electronics are important when fishing “soft water” but when your ice fishing it is imperitive. When the water is 26 degrees and the fish move like they are in syrup you need all the help you can get to catch them! And Vexilars are super easy to read & operate; drop the puck in the hole and turn it on!If you don’t get a flasher then you better know the lake your fishing, or be an excellent lake map reader! Or you can use the old “Swede” method of clipping on a 1 OZ weight to your line to find out the depth. This works, but only gives you the depth. 5.) Rods & Reels- Ugly Stik makes a great Ice fishing rod, (esp for bait fishing). If your going to do some Ice-jigging for Panfish/Walleye get a rod with a sensitive tip. Lines OVER the diameter of 4LB-6LB mono are too heavy, (unless your fishing giant Lakers and then you could go as high as 8-10LB diameter). A 3-4LB braided line is perfect. Try Berkley Fireline and Power Pro in the 3-4LB range. Baits- Yellow Ice float, split shot, hook is a good standard rig. You can also use an ice jig/minnow combo or an Ice Fly. The Rapala Ice Jig is popular. Minnows- (Fathead & Crappie)- used for Crappie, Walleye, Pike.Red Wigglers, Meal Worms, Maggots, Earthworms- Bluegill, Crappie. Shiners- Walleye & PikeHope this helps ya? Good luck on your first trip!
December 19th, 2010 at 3:43 am
There are as many answers to this as there are fishermen. I personally like the Berkley Cherrywood rods and tend to go 6’6″ or 7′ myself. I have a custom G. Loomis with a Symetre and it is a very nice rig, but the fish could care less what rod you use, I catch as much on my Cherrywood, or my “Ugly Stick” as I do on the EXPENSIVE set-up.The Cherrywood has caught hundreds of King Salmon and countless small trout and Bass without showing a bit of fatigue yet.
December 19th, 2010 at 4:06 pm
Your question involves two very different types of tackle. I would buy an open face spinning reel with 6 or 7 ft rod medium heavy for smaller fish and a heavier Penn 109 type saltwater reel with a shorter stubby glass rod made for heavy fish for saltwater look around for good used equipment try craigslist on internet or garage sales. Match tackle to types of fishing it works better in real life. I like Penn 360 Slammer myself, its strong.
December 20th, 2010 at 4:09 am
there are tackle shops that fix reels,sometimes they have old parts that will do the trick.if not ,your in the same boat they are,sending to shimano for the part addig to your time and expense.be forwarned its 8.00 dollars to ship back from the company and additinal fee to send it there.also there disclaimer says we may not have parts for older models.check first.my advice,if it is not an expensive reel dump it,it will cost you allot to be fixed either way if parts are involved.if its minor look in yellow pages,lots of guys do it,maybe sping or adjustment.if you love the reel proceed my way you might find success.there are sites on line that will punch up the schmaticcs for every shimano reel.pick the part and order.search you will find it i have ,forgot name.look under reel repair.once you punch up schmatic order and you done.SEARCH REEL REPAIR you will find schmatics and parts for sure
December 20th, 2010 at 4:06 pm
Personally, I would go with the Symetre front drag,(I actually own 3 of these and have never had any trouble with them).BUT, The President is nice too! It’s a “Win/Win” either way.