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All credible reviewers who analyze and rate these products choose Fishing Reel. Some of them cover the Fishing Reel in lengthy and well-detailed non-comparative reviews. Here are some links for Fishing Reel that contain comments from these reviewers.
How do you use a bait caster fishing reel?
I started fresh water fishing last year and I really do enjoy it. My wife bought me a Quatum Fishing Reel bait caster reel and I am having trouble with casting it so the line does not tangle up. I have become very good with the standard spinning reels. But this works differently with the magnetics and the setting of the drag. point me in the right direction.
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December 19th, 2010 at 12:41 pm
Evil- you are evil…ahh geez, i’m in over my head on this, and caunltd can give me a hard time …but I’ll take a stab at it.torque, by definition, is twist. The most obvious thing that comes to mind is the old street stock drag cars we would watch when i was a kid. The inner workings of the motor would spin in the car, causing one front tire to lift off of the ground, like this http://www.flickr.com/photos/35679843@N03/4458809408/So here’s where I put my foot in my mouth. Conventional reel. Its MY understanding that when under a heavy load (fish) two things cause torque, turning the handle, which is only on one side of the reel, and line tension, which isn’t always centered on the spool. These cause torque, or twist.Soo… this is bad, because twisting a reel in those directions can cause failure, usually in less expensive, or older reels, like the penn squidder, or other wide spooled reel, would cause the bars Between the sideplates to come apart, or a spool to bend, things of that nature.That’s one of the reasons reel body’s are made of one piece, to reduce or eliminate torque. something is going to give elsewhere, but not from twisting.and that’s another reason why I’m not so sure its a good idea to recommend using Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene, or spectra type lines that have a rating way above the Reel manufactures recommendations, on reels that are rated for a third of the line test. when pulled on, with no stretch, I’m thinkin’ somethings gonna give, and if you’re fishing these ugly stik composite tree stumps everyone recommends, its going to be the reel that goes pow. But I digress.
December 20th, 2010 at 12:05 am
You could fish with a tree branch like huck finn , but you may not catch anything. the answer is more no than yes
December 20th, 2010 at 12:13 pm
u need a prawn with a tri hook and reel in for about 12 seconds
December 21st, 2010 at 12:49 am
For heaving drum rigs the Penn Squidder 250. For long casting with plugs, buck tails and other artificial baits in the surf, one can never go wrong with the Penn 525 Mag and the Shimano Calcutta 400S or 400BSV. I have changed the bearings in the Calcuttas, with Abec 7 bearings. The smoothness and distance of my casts, have greatly improved., with the change. I use 17 to 20 lbs. test mono. Heavier lines tend to dampen the cast.With the Penn 250 I use heavy action 11ft. rod. The Penn 525 is matched with an 11ft. rod custom made from a British made Conoflex blank (really good for long distance casting). The Calcuttas are matched with heavy action 8ft. Lamiglas baitcasters, good when fishing with bucktails and rubber worms and when walking the dog.
December 21st, 2010 at 11:55 am
Since Extreme reels are pushed by 12-Time Bassmaster Classic Qualifier, Stacey King, they’re made for bass fishing. Yes, it’ll work very well in saltwater as long as you give it a good rinse with freshwater when you’re done. Nothing hurts a helpless little bass reel more than mean ol’ saltwater…For redfish and spotted weakfish, I would go with the wider-spooled, 6.4:1 gear ratioed ETX20HC (high capacity) model.
December 22nd, 2010 at 12:30 am
When I bow fished, before compound bows, I attached the reel with electrical tape, and then took it off after fishing.
December 22nd, 2010 at 11:53 am
Sounds like the anti-reverse failed on you. It could be sticky, old reel grease gumming up, it could be debris build up inside the reel, it could be weakened spring, or it could be worn out parts. Since the reel failed to work properly already, you mind as well take the reel apart and try to fix it yourself. I think most people could fix a fishing reel most of the time. Don’t pop everything apart at once. Do it step by step and try to memorize where each part goes. You’ll need to remember the orders of the washers as well. Taking notes will really help because you can’t always remember everything. Fishing reels aren’t that complicated. There’s only one correct way to put them back together. If you study the parts a little, you should be able to figure out how anti-reverse mechanism worked. Usually, there’s only one spring and one lever biting onto one gear. Once you figured out how everything worked, disassemble and clean all internal parts. If its weakened springs, you could bend (leaf spring) or pull the (coil) spring to squeeze a little more life out of it; you could use the old spring until you found replacement parts. Check you reel’s gears for wears and damages while you’re at it. Put the reel back together and check for function. If the reel is working properly, take it apart and grease the gears. Apply grease to gears and light oil to other parts. Keep in mind too much grease in the reel might not be good in the long run because debris will stick to grease and excess grease could gum up internal parts. Check for function again after the grease and oil. If you couldn’t put the reel back together after several attempts and everything appeared hopeless, you could always bring the reel in for service inside a plastic bag; just make sure you don’t loose any parts.I clean and service all my reels myself. Some reels are very easy and some reels are absolutely painful to put back together. So far, I’ve not killed any of my reels yet and all reels were put back together without too much problem. I’m able to put most reels back within 15min. There’s only 1 reel which took me over two hours and many attempts to put it back together properly for the very fist time.PS: Try to download the schematics for your reel before you take it apart really helps.
December 22nd, 2010 at 11:58 pm
You would need two very different set ups for the two types of fishing you described. For the Catfish in the Snake River you will need a much heavier rig. It also depends on how much money you would like to spend as it varies widely. Check into Bass Pro Shop or Caballa’s or Gander Mountain for gear to set up for your needs.
December 23rd, 2010 at 12:04 pm
Search between shimano, daiwa and Penn. I got a deal on a $250 reel for $150 but it’s not my ‘go to reel’.
December 24th, 2010 at 12:41 am
Unscrew the cover on the front of the reel. Push in the button on the back of the reel. Feed your new line thru the hole in the cover from the outside and tie a loop knot around the inner spool axle. Screw the cover back on and reel the new line onto the spool.
December 24th, 2010 at 11:58 am
Have you try to take the top off because there should be a area in there where line suppose to go but if you have any problem you should just go to a local bait and tackle shop and im pretty sure they would help you or they would even ask if you want line on them and they would gladly put fishing line on your reel for a cheaper price then if you bought a whole 300 YRD line at the store.
December 25th, 2010 at 12:31 am
You are trying to operate it like a spincast reel instead of a spinning reel which is what an EZ Cast is. EZ Casts are not bad reels, you just haven’t learned to use it correctly yet. They can be tricky, it just takes practice. Here is an article I found on how to spool line onto a spinning reel. “Run the end of the line through the rod guides and wrap the tag end around the spool twice. Then, tie an over-hand knot in the tag end, wrapping the knot around the mainline as it comes onto the reel spool. Then tie and over-hand knot in the tag end and slide the knot down so that it rests just above the first knot. After securing the knot by pulling it tight, trim the tag end so that ¼ inch of line remains above the second knot (this extra line keeps the knot from coming loose). Close the bail so that the reel is engaged and ready to begin winding line onto the spool. If you have a friend available, have them hold the spool with the front side facing you, making sure that they keep plenty of tension on the line. If you are along when doing this, try running the line through the pages of a phone book to keep the line tight. I prefer that the line come off the spool counter-clockwise. The reason for this is because when you cast a spinning reel like my Abu Garcia Cardinal 804, the line comes off clockwise. By having the line come off the line spool counter-clockwise, it helps tame some of the line twist. Keeping tension on the line, I begin to wind the reel handle and fill the reel spool. Keep an eye on the reel spool to make sure that the line is filling the spool evenly and fill the spool within 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch from the edge. Too much or too little line will affect the reel’s performance. Once the reel is spooled, cut the line from the remaining line in the package and tie on your favorite lure.”As far as casting, take a look at this website. It has a video series teaching you the anatomy of a spinning reel, and how to cast it. Be sure to watch the entire 10 part series, they are only about 2-3 minutes a piece and you will learn a lot.http://www.monkeysee.com/play/1453-fishing-how-to-cast-a-spinning-reelA spinning reel is a LOT different from the closed faced spincast reel. It is operated a lot differently, and can be tricky without a little practice. But once you master it, it can cast a LOT farther than a spincast reel and can cast lighter lures if you need to. If you are having trouble though, take it back and get you a Zebco 33 spincast reel and rod combo. They are cheap, but are good reels, and will help you learn the basics.***Remember, the line has to be in that little rolling metal guide at the edge of the bail when you reel in after a cast or while loading the line when it’s through the guides. If it is not, then it will not reel in properly. Also, the knot in the article does not have to be so complicated, a simple slip knot or the knot that Artie mentioned will be fine for putting the line on.I hope this helps. Good luck.
December 25th, 2010 at 12:39 pm
I’m not familiar with that particular reel, but I’d say call the manufacturer, if they still exist, they should be able to help you.
December 26th, 2010 at 12:46 am
Surf Fishing- Penn was once the leader in all saltwater reels. However, since farming out numerous different manufactured parts from China, (and Shimano & Daiwa making HUGE strides forward in reel design) it’s a “crap shoot” whether you will get a “good one” or not. There are certain Penn reels that are still “mostly” American made with American Parts. Here are my favorite’s that still have “quality” workmanship & components- 1. Penn Slammer- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_96639____SearchResults2. Penn Spinfisher SSm- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_72135_151001002_151000000_151001000?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCTThe Spinfisher is a “tank”. Esp good for Surf Fishing or Offshore light action fishing. There is a reason the design has not changed in 60 years- it works! The only issues with the SSM is the “spool wobble”. If your OK with that, then this would be a nice reel for the Surf. Go to a Bass Pro Shops or Cabelas, (or your local Sporting Goods Store) and “test drive” it. One other thing about Penn- They are EASILY fixed. Most local reel repair shops have prts for Penn reels, (or have easy access). Another “plus” in the Penn category. My Favorite fishing reel for the Surf or for Jetty/Pier fishing is the Daiwa Black Gold Series. The BG’s are another “tank” designed reel. VERY sturdy and almost indestructible, the BG’s are a common reel you see aboard savoy Florida charter boats. Daiwa designed these reels to offer something to the US market that could compete with Penn’s SSm Series. They are JUST as durable, with excellent workmanship and good components AND they don’t have the “spool wobble” the SSm has. AND they are cheaper by about $40!!!!!!!!!So what you have is a reel that is cheaper than a Penn SSM, has the same quality as an SSM, and (FYI) ALSO is easily repaired by local Reel shops- it’s really no contest which is better. Check them out & read the reviews at Bass Pro- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_2038____SearchResultsAnd here is Cabelas reviews on the BG’s- http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0011449312845a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=daiwa+black+gold&sort=all&Go.y=5&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&Go.x=21&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1 One more reel that is excellent for Surf Fishing is the Fin-Nor OFS Series. These are VERY nice. Are built like “tanks” and have all the other “bells & whistles” the other 2 competitors have. Personally, if I was buying another Surf/Light Offshore Spinning reel it would be an OFS. It’s THAT good!Read reviews at Bass Pro- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_89192____SearchResultsThe above reels are “all metal designed” with VERY tough components and designed for the harsh saltwater environment. All three are the least expensive, (but with excellent workmanship), reels you can purchase that, (with proper care), could easily last a lifetime. You can get more expensive reels but they won’t last any longer than the above 3. Here are a couple “Holy Grail” reels that mirror or rival the components and workmanship of the Daiwa BG’s, Penn SSm and Fin-Nor OFS. Notice the price tag- 1. Shimano Stella- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_103548____SearchResults2. Shimano Stella- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_96664_100001002_100000000_100001000?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT3. Daiwa Saltiga- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10207523_151001002_151000000_151001000_151-1-24. Quantum Cabo PT- http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_51680_151001002_151000000_151001000_151-1-2The above reels are some of the finest reels made. If you have the money, these are THE best quality reels made within a reasonable price point ( the Van Stals are even more expensive!!!).However, unless your a connesiour of fishing reels, I think you would be pleased with a simple Daiwa BG, Penn SSm (or Penn Slammer), or a Fin-Nor OFS. I am confident they would last as long, (if not longer) than any reel in the “Stella” class. Combo’s??-Think about this- When combo’s arrive from the manufacturer they come in huge boxes all wrapped together, (rod and all). When I was a manager at a tackle store in Florida we would ALWAYS get 2-4 combo’s that had been damaged in the shipping process.It always AMAZED me that major fishing company’s would pkg their combo’s so “slip-shod”. The point? The odds on you getting a “dud” reel or rod in a combo pkg is high. Why risk it? Usually the difference in price is marginal, ($10-$20) and the “pkging process” with reels & rods is always better when they are shipped separate. Hope this helps ya in your hunt for a good Surf reel? Read reviews at Cabelas and Bass Pro for further insightful help. Good fishing!
December 26th, 2010 at 12:43 pm
Link will give ya’ a visual approach at doin’ it (video), the only variation of it that I would suggest is to place new spool on the floor with the brand label facin’ up when spoolin’/reelin’ line in;)… < * { {{ >
December 27th, 2010 at 12:38 am
yes you start off with a simple but solid knot and slowly fill the reel until you cover the original knot and then continue to fill the rod with a certain amount of resistance, not tight until spool is full, do not over load spool.