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I had to buy several items just to realize that Extra Spool was the best choice for the price all along. The only negatives I’ve found were that there are better units available, but they are more expensive and the reviews I found on them were on the negative side. So here’s my final word. I 100% endorse Extra Spool and will even show you some places to get it even cheaper than retail.
what should i use a big spool of florescent pink string for?
i bought it from the hardware store because i had a little extra money Extra Spool and i don,t know what to do with it...some type of thing to make in the summer would be nice...(I'm a guy so don't tell me to make a girly thing like a friendship bracelet or something, and this is like heavy duty string, not the stuff for kite flying...)
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December 19th, 2010 at 3:54 pm
what? Don’t get it….
December 20th, 2010 at 3:49 am
That is an excellent question and not an easy one to answer. I use a combination of clear and camo intermediate lines, darker floating lines (like Rio’s Nymphing line) and some floating fly lines that are really bright, like yellow or orange or light green. The fly fishing line manufacturers have created a wide variety of lines over the years. I remember when they first came out with a line of brightly colored fluorescent lines, saying how great it was that you would be able to see your line. People bought them and used them, including many experts. They worked just fine. Then they came out with the clear and camo intermediate lines and they worked just fine. Then to the darker greens and some have a brighter blue to match the sky, and they will work just fine.I think what that shows is that it really doesn’t matter so much as to what the color of the line is, but rather how you, the fly fisher, uses it.If you drift your fly line, any colored fly line, directly over fish that have been fished really hard, you will spook the fish. If it drifts over fish that seldom see a fly fisher, then it may not matter as much. After all, the rivers and lakes carry tons of natural junk in the water, all very natural for the fish to see. I have had salmon swim right between my legs, because they don’t fear us, out in the ocean they never saw a person standing in the water. To them, it was just more objects in the water, nothing to worry about. On the opposite side of that, you can step up to the edge of a stream and spook all the fish out of a pond just by them seeing you or your shadow or feeling the vibrations of your steps. They have seen a lot of predators like us and respond very quickly.So, keep your fly line from drifting over the fish. Use fluorocarbon tippet to make it even harder for the fish to see your leader. If you are in a river, start working the water closest to you and work your fly and fly line out farther into the stream in stages. That way you will decrease your chance of drifting line directly over fish that are in a feeding mode.Use longer leaders to allow you to keep the line farther away. If you are casting upstream, learn to toss a reach cast to get your line off the seam you are going to work your fly.In the lakes, I usually use the clear or camo lines or the newer Outbound fly lines by Rio, with a clear mono shooting head then a colored running line. My sinking lines are almost all dark or dark headed with a running line that may be colored lighter. For dry flies you can use the newer clear lines, I have not tried them, but I do use a long leader and fluorocarbon tippet. If I am going to work a fly from my WaterMaster raft, I cast it out then strip out almost all of my fly line so the fly is 100 feet behind my boat. That gives the water a 100 foot distance to calm down from my passing through and for the fish to feel comfortable again. Then I work the fly in short 10 foot strips and then snake the line out and move my boat about 15 feet, then work the fly again.So, down and dirty, I don’t think the color of the line is critical, it is how you use and present the line that counts.Larry
December 20th, 2010 at 4:25 pm
in the end i fucked em allhappy ending
December 21st, 2010 at 4:38 am
DON’T DELETE ANYTHING!!!Sorry for the yelling … but you CAN ruin your computer by deleting everything that HJT shows.The reason that HiJackThis shows everything is because it’s a diagnostic tool … just like how the garage hooks your car up to a computer to find out what’s up with your car, HJT takes a good thorough look at your computer to find out what’s going on “under the hood.” You need to see the good as well as the bad in order to see what’s happening with the computer. That’s why HJT is such a powerful diag tool, and why using it is best left to experts – or done under the guidance of an expert.I’ve had some experience with HJT logs and yours doesn’t show any signs of nasties on your computer, so you don’t have to delete anything. The only entries I might delete are the O2 line that ends with (no file) and the O9 that says “Extra button (no name)” in the interest of general housekeeping, but leaving them in won’t hurt anything.If you want to have your log looked at by an expert, there are many websites that specialize in doing just that. Just Google “HiJackThis logs” and you should find quite a few. Please do that BEFORE you delete ANYTHING, even the lines I said I’d delete in the interest of computer housekeeping.
December 21st, 2010 at 4:41 pm
I looked over this log and it appears to be a pretty much standard and nothing suspicious. Though I would tell you if you are going to run Java at least download script block for your Firefox browser. That and McAffe anti virus SUCKS. Try Avast Anti-virus. It’s free and does a MUCH better job at blocking, detecting viruses and spyware.You aren’t EVER going to remove NT_Kernel. It’s the core of Windows XP. The Kernel contains all the vital instructions and programming that allows your computer to be something more than an expensive paperweight. Windows will NOT allow you to delete it short of formatting the HDD. You can however change your windows update options from the control panel to not update or notify you when updates are available but not download them and auto install.
December 22nd, 2010 at 3:54 am
The line snapped because you are using way too much weight for that line. An 8 or 10 ounce lure is huge. With 8 lb line, cut your weight down to 1 or 2 ounces.You described what happened perfectly. When the spool spins faster than the line is leaving the spool you get backlash. In this case, you need to generate a considerable amount of energy to cast that weight. With a bait casting reel, the last place to lose the energy is the spool. Even cheaper reels are going to have good enough engineering so that they will spin faster than the casted weight will pull the line off of the reel.The key in the most simple terms is to keep the right amount of tension between the reel and the weight at the end of the line so the line comes off of the reel smoothly. (That’s the real tricky part to casting a bait casting reel.) You need to use your thumb to maintain that tension as you are casting. It takes practice to get it just right. The learning curve will reduce first by reducing the weight to something more manageable for the reel. As your skill level increases, you can start throwing weight that is too heavy for the rod and reel.
December 22nd, 2010 at 3:54 pm
Get the 3200 for the reasons you listed. It is much more versitile and will do a much better job. Having a 240 volt receptacle installed in your shop is not a problem at all. The 3200 is a great welder for a home type shop.John a tig welder is for aluminum and stainless, not heavy duty work. GMAW and Flux core wire is for heavy duty work.
December 23rd, 2010 at 4:28 am
“Normal” in pregnancy is a term very loosely used! It’s possible your baby and your stomach are fighting for space in there, or that your hormones are simply not your friends right now. My appetite has definitely gone back and forth through pregnancy, and I, too, am usually all about food! (Heck, my fiance is a chef, so I’m used to being spoiled! He stopped cooking for me because I wouldn’t eat it. Not because it wasn’t good, I just couldn’t stomach it!) Eat whatever your body craves, even if it’s not the healthiest thing in the world. Try snacking throughout the day, not necessarily eating “meals” and see if that helps. Buy whole fat milk and yogurt, etc, which will increase calories in a healthy way for you. Now is definitely not the time to eat low-fat anything if you’re having trouble gaining weight. Now, having said that, of course you don’t want junk ALL the time, but maybe use butter instead of margarine when cooking your veggies, and extra olive oil here or there. Hopefully your weight will straighten itself out. What about a protein shake for breakfast or lunch? Oh, and eating your largest meal early might help… I found that at breakfast time I’m starving, and things like bacon, etc, have a pretty fair amount of calories. Then for lunch I’ll have something small, a yogurt and frozen grapes for a snack (don’t buy light, as most have aspertame, as you know), a smallish portioned dinner, and a couple of glasses of milk and some freshly baked cookies before bed (like two). I’ve managed to gain the recommended pound a week (after the first trimester) and my doctor is fine with my overall weight gain of 30lbs (I lost 10 in the first trimester, so I felt like I needed to make up a little ground). Now I’m not gaining week to week at the end really, though the baby is getting bigger, and that’s normal, too. I hope that helps a little… worked for me!
December 23rd, 2010 at 4:28 pm
Go with the brand that you can get serviced when needed.Singer is just as good if you purchase a model that has the same features as you listed for the other brands.None of the new brands will have the same “feel” as a Singer that was built pre 1970.You need to try these machines as well as how helpful the shop is.
December 24th, 2010 at 4:34 am
one of pedros friends
December 24th, 2010 at 4:22 pm
I have a how-to load your holga video posted on youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jlkRw37IgAI’m not sure why your camera came with extra spools. You only need one.For tips and tricks, check out my website:http://dianacamera.com/For other how-to videos for Holga and Diana cameras, check out my youtube channel:http//:www.youtube.com/user/kaituba
December 25th, 2010 at 4:00 am
There were a few entries that I was worried about, but after some research I found they were just part of your sound software.Other than that, nothing looks bad to me.
December 25th, 2010 at 3:48 pm
Not that I would actually do the following but I think it’s very clever and gave me a chuckle. I was visiting a Bait and Tackle shop and the husband and wife owners were joking with each other. I didn’t know them but he got me involved by showing me his creation that his wife thought was silly. He wanted my reaction.He had taken a wad of extra line and placed eggs and a small bird that he must have picked up from a craft store inside it…think there was other stuff too like bird feathers. It was all inside a small wicker basket.Anyway…it was a huge “bird nest.” Being very experienced with afore mentioned. I thought it was a riot…I chuckle just remembering. I think most anglers, especially those that use baitcasting rigs, would get a kick out of it….gifts perhaps?I think his wife was just giving him a hard time. He put it in the window of his shop.
December 26th, 2010 at 4:35 am
First of all, the rod. My advice with float rods is to go for length. My own float rod is 13′ and I also have a carp waggler rod of 12′. Float rods have limited casting ability, so the longer the rod the better the cast you will be able to achieve.The 12′ model is the one for you.Now, reels. If you are using a waggler rod you do not need a big pit reel or one with a high line capacity. It would be a total mismatch. Big pit reels are designed to be used for casting heavy duty line long distances with heavy rods. No float rod can cast any serious distance like that, nor can it cope with heavy duty line. You need to go with a match reel or a middle range fixed spool reel of some description. I think you would be much better off with something like the Azure RD 300 Match Reel or the Barbus XLT400 (which comes with a highly useful four spare spools). They come in at the same sort of price and will give you a much better balanced setup.Hope that helps. Tight lines.EDIT: I found the Robinson site and had a look at the Rexon. It’ll do the job beautifully. When you put line onto the reel you might want to put a little backing on the reel spool first. Casting with a full spool is much easier than with one that is half empty. Bearing in mind that with a float rod you’re unlikely to use more than 100 yards of line using backing will save you having to buy a second 100m of line. Here is a tip to help you use exactly the right amount of backing. Wind your mainline onto the reel spool. To do this fix the end of the line onto the spool, place the spool of line into a bucket of water and then just wind. Doing this stops the line twisting as it comes off the line spool. Line twist is a real pain. When you have wound all of the line onto the reel spool attach some backing material to it and continue winding until the reel spool is full to the rim. Cut the backing and take the reel spool off the reel. Put the empty spare reel spool onto the reel, attach the backing to it, and then wind everything off the first reel spool onto this one. Have a good time with your new kit!