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Overall, the Tube Jigs was great, and I have no problem recommending Tube Jigs for anyone wanting one. LOVE THIS Tube Jigs
where can i get a frame jig?
where can i get a bmx frame jig. i want to make frames Tube Jigs but i don't where to start. i know all the specs and stuff like that for the frame but i don't know what to have the tubes on when i weld.. help me out thanks.dustin-
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December 20th, 2010 at 11:06 am
Actually, pneudraulic is a combination of pneumatic and hydraulic…Rodney… I know I asked what questions you had, but don’t you think that this is a bit excessive? Each one of these questions could use a full chapter in one of your textbooks to answer properly. If, as you say, you are studying to become an aircraft mechanic, then why not bring these questions up in class so your instructors can spend some time giving you the proper answers.
December 20th, 2010 at 11:20 pm
“In Depths” – Early Season Walleye Early spring brings serious Walleye fishermen to The Columbia River in pursuit of one of “the finest eating freshwater fish available.” This time of year, known as the “pre-spawn” period, also presents the finest fishing action for the species. This is due in part to the availability of larger concentrations of fish in smaller areas. As water temperatures slowly climb to 36-38 degrees Fahrenheit, Walleye begin their spawning runs from the lower reaches of impoundment’s towards the tailraces of dams. It is here where they will find good spawning gravel and rock, aerated water and a good food supply. When the temperature reaches 44-46 degrees, the Walleye will be getting ready for spawning and some may already have. Either way, this is prime time to catch good numbers of fish. Fishing techniques for the early part of runs emphasize vertical jigging. Your choice of jigs may not be as critical as your technique, but some consideration to size and color should be carefully thought out. In the high and muddy waters of February and early March, I usually have better results with high visibility colors, such as chartreuse, fluorescent green or red, or a fluorescent pink and white combination. When the water clears, a myriad of colors will produce fish, but the greens and chartreuse’s remain my favorites as the river always has a darker cast to it at the depths we find fish.The Lure My favorite jig is known as a “bullet jig” or “tube jig.” It is simply a bullet shaped lead-head jig with a tube skirt over it. Some bass fishermen may know this as a “Fat Getzit,” only we tend to use a little heavier weight to offset strong currents encountered below the dams. Start with a 3/4 oz. or 1oz. bullet jig with a 1/0 or 2/0 hook and attach a “stinger hook” (trailing hook size of your choice, snelled to the jig hook with twelve lb. monofilament). Slide the lead head into the tube skirt using your favorite scent attractant or WD40 as a lubricant. Now all you need to do is thread on a nite-crawler (THIS IS A MUST!) and go fishing. To thread the ‘crawler,’ start with the stinger hook and thread the worm from below the band towards the tail onto the hook. Now hook the head of the worm onto the jig hook so it is stretched out between the two.The Technique Jig fishing for Walleye is a “finesse” technique that can be quickly learned if one has the proper equipment. You can simply drift with the current and quickly lower your jig to the bottom. Once down, work your lure only six to eight inches, making sure you keep a taught line on both the up AND down stroke. The key here is always keeping your line taught as the Walleye’s bite can be very subtle, and any slack in the line will produce a missed strike. Another method for a more controlled drift is to use a bow mounted electric motor to slow your drift. This will keep your jig at a bit of an angle ahead of you so you can prevent more snags and detect the strikes easier. It will also allow you to stay in preferred depths as the current carries you downstream.Equipment Without going into great detail on boats and motors, I would just say that the Columbia River can go from a calm impoundment to a raging river with five to six foot swells in a matter of minutes, due in part to prevailing winds blowing against the current. If you are in a smaller boat, stay near the shore, near the boat ramp, AND ALWAYS watch the weather! Your choice of rods and reels will be a critical factor in your success, and should be matched to the tackle you are using. With the heavier jigs, I prefer a six and a half to seven foot medium or medium/heavy action rod. A “soft tipped” rod will NOT give you the control and feel of what your jig is doing. Both level wind and spinning reels will work, but I prefer a level wind finding it easier for line control and “adjusting” for changes in depth. Eight to twelve lb. monofilament will suit most fishing conditions. I find the new “Spectra” lines are great, just a little hard to break loose from snags.Finding the fish Walleye can be found most anywhere in the river, but a good place to start is on or around sunken islands, generally in the twelve to twenty foot depth range. Breaklines or shelves that run parallel to the bank are another prime holding area. These breaklines generally taper or stairstep off towards the center of the river offering a variety of depths for fishing. Try a drift in ten to twelve feet of water, and gradually move to deeper drifts until you locate the Walleye. A fishfinder is a must, if only for depth control, though it is always nice to know there are fish in the area.Patience and Perseverance Walleye fishing can be a frustrating experience IF you expect to catch your limit (or even one fish) on every trip. The sometimes elusive fish seems to be affected by many factors, including but not limited to such things as barometric pressure, water fluctuations, wind and current. Don’t be discouraged if you go out one day and catch a big stringer of fish, then come home “skunked” the very next day. Sometimes they just do not want to bite! Stick with the basics, experiment a little, and be persistent. Eventually they WILL BITE! Good Luck…
December 21st, 2010 at 10:28 am
A piece of 3/4 plywood might be a good place to start. Use bolts, u-bolts or dowels to hold the tubes in place long enough to tack the joints. You may be able to use something like B-line also. I used spare pieces of B-line (slotted angle steel) for a few bicycle choppers and sissy bars. Good Luck!
December 21st, 2010 at 11:21 pm
Practice makes perfect! But not always when you are fishing. Feeling a fish bite, or fish on, takes practice. With some fish you pull rod tip up just enough for the hook to set into the fish on the other end of your line. With other fish you wait for them to catch themselves. And then there are fish that hold on to what they bite and there are other fish that mouth and taste before choosing to eat or say “neaah!, awful” and spit out or let go. You can learn when and how to set a hook. Try set hook immediately on seeing line, float, bait move or disappear. Time hook set attempt a split second earlier or later. Find out what works.Talk with other fishermen about the fish you are going for. Setting hook timing, styles. Hooks, bait, floats, bobbers, strike indicators. Etc.And it seems you have a jig with an inch and a half tube on it? Attach a line and hook to the very end of your lure in an attempt to hook on to fish that may be nibbling on the end of your lure set up. Or buy jig and second hook set up from your local tackle shop.
December 22nd, 2010 at 10:52 am
since no heavy cover is present, you may wanna get a lighter line, loosen up the drag a bit and fish weightless worm instead?keep the lure moving constantly so it won’t make it all the way to the bottom and in between rocks
December 22nd, 2010 at 10:44 pm
minnows number one. crappie jigs (with either plastic or marabou tail), with or without a minnow pinned thru the lips a very close second. and at times the jigs are superior to live bait. if you are fishing in brush, you might not like a minnow tangling with the branches. and, uhh… the pickle juice is for what, exactly? if you want to scent your grubs, buy a small bottle of shad flavored bait oil made just for this purpose. put a squirt and a few grubs in a baggie to soak. also, it just may be possible the ascetic acid in the pickle juice vinegar may help your hooks to rust which you should avoid.
December 23rd, 2010 at 11:16 am
Try a curly tail body as well as the tube. One may work better than the other on any given day. Fish are picky sometimes. This goes for the way you fish the bait also. You can reel it fast or slow. You can jerk-reel it. Meaning while you are reeling, you make a steady jerk every 3 or 4 seconds. Depending on the structure in the water, you can jig the bait also. Especially in deep water, you can let it sink for a few seconds then reel it or jerk. The possibilities with roadrunners are endless. One of the best baits I’ve used.
December 23rd, 2010 at 10:57 pm
Monofilament is a limp line with low to moderate spool memory and average diameter as compared to its breaking strength. It has a considerable amount of stretch to it and does not transmit bottom contact and light bites as well as fluorocarbon. Monofilament has good abrasion resistance and knot strength with fairly low visibility. It casts easily and tends to float. Copolymer lines have properties similar to mono but are usually thicker and have better abrasion resistance. Fluorocarbon is not as limp as mono. It tends to be moderately to extremely “springy”, which can lead to loops and tangles, especially on spinning reels. Although, fluoro is nearly invisible, has signifiantly lower stretch than mono, and transmits light bites and bottom contact extremely well. It sinks also and has a higher abrasion resistance than monofilament, but has about the same diameter/breaking strength ratio. Braid has an extremely small diameter compared to its breaking strength. It has no stretch and is extremly limp. Braid is pretty prone to knotting and backlashing during a cast and has the highest visibility of any line. It floats and is extremely abrasion resistant.Bottom baits, flourocarbon’s extremely low visibity, superior abrasion resistance ad enhanced ability to transmit bottom contact and light bites make it a good choice. Mono is good also.Crankbaits, fluorocarbon transmits vibrations and bottom contact through the rod better than either monofilament or braid, allowing you to moniter your lure during the retrieve better, also ’cause fluorocarbon sinks, it helps diving lures dive even deeper.Its fifty-fifty with jerkbaits. Fluorocarbon gets these lures down deeper, a big help is cooler water, but monofilament’s better stretch helps prevent lightly hooked fish from coming off.Monofilament’s better stretch allows bass to engulf spinnerbaits and buzzbaits deeper for better hook sets… a good thing when bass are hitting short.Heavy mono or copolymer line for big heavy swimbaits, fluorocarbon for smaller swimbaits in clear water.Fluorocarbon sinks, not allowing the action of surface baits to shine. Braid floats, but the lack of shock-absorbing stretcginess means lightly hooked fish can easily throw the hook. Monofilament has the best blend of castability, flotation and stretchiness for topwater lures.Braid is the best for frogs. It floats, helping prevent the line from getting entangled in submerged vegetation. Braid’s small diameter makes casting these lures long distances, and high breaking strength means you’ll land more fish hooked in the thicker stuff.
December 24th, 2010 at 11:20 am
Insert a light (1/16 to 1/8 ounce) lead head jig with a 2/0 hook into the hollow body (push the jig eye through the plastic), cast it on light line and allow it to spiral down to the bass, like a dying baitfish. You must let the bait fall on total slack line for the proper presentation. Let it sit on the bottom, then gently raise your rod tip until you feel the bait. If it feels “funny” (i.e. spongy, weighs a little more or less), set the hook! Lift and drop once or twice, then reel back. Happy fishing
December 24th, 2010 at 10:34 pm
First here are a couple of pictures, the first is a jig head and the second is a tube.http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat410008&id=0023796118573a&navCount=2&podId=0023796&parentId=cat410008&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat410008&hasJS=truehttp://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat600389_TGP&id=0053839116826a&navCount=7&podId=0053839&parentId=cat600389&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=8IS&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat600389&hasJS=trueA jig head is nothing more than a hook with a weighted head on it. You simply “slide” your bait /lure onto the hook and push up to the head. There are a number of ways to fish a jig, but the most simple is cast and retrieve. That’s when you just “throw” it out there and reel it in. A tube is a soft plastic bait that can be used to catch a number of fish depending on the size of it. They can be rigged several ways, one of which is a Texas Rig. Tubes can be flipped or pitched, dragged across the bottom, or simply cast one out and reel in. I have been using tubes with a 1/4 oz. jighead inside of it( a certain jighead that’s made for tubes) with much success lately.(pitching docks!) Hope I helped some. Good luck!
December 25th, 2010 at 11:13 am
for bass try a weighted senko type bait texas rigged. Use it it 10+ feet of water. Let it sink to the bottom and let it stay there for a minute or two. I garentee the bass will watch it senko and keep an eye on it while it lays on the ground. Shake the rod tip to give the bait some movement. Make sure you dont let the senko fall on slack line like you usually would. after you shake the rod tip a few times lift the rod tip and you will raise a red flag to a bass. I used this strategy for the bass tourney i did early this year after a cold front went through. I was catching them left and right and won the tourney. I also caught a few 22-25 inch pikes.the key to fish any bass lure under this condition is to fish it SLOWLYfor pike, try a small bluegill, crappie, perch or any other small fish and a big hook and through it out on a large bobber. The bobber should be about 4-5 feet away from the bait. Throw it out and let in sit. when the bobber goes all the way under you got a pike. Set the hook. It may take awhile to catch pike this way but it’ll work.good questionhope i helpedgood luck!
December 25th, 2010 at 10:35 pm
There are a lot of lures for Northern Pike, but be careful-what works great in some lakes will not work well in others. In some lakes, big bucktails, jerkbaits and other muskie lures work well on Northerns, but in others, they won’t touch these baits, not even really big Northerns. Much of this has to do with the type of baitfish in the lake. Also, the time of year plays a factor. Avoid the big baits in the early spring.Modern suspending crankbaits in minnow configuratuions seem to be the best all-around bait. Rapala’s Husky Jerk is my favorite, even though they don’t come any bigger than 5 1/2.” Crank them fast down to depth, stop, twitch it a few times, crank some more, stop and twitch, etc. In some lakes, spoons still reign supreme, such as the Wiliams Spoon, the Daredevle and so on. But don’t just cast and reel. Yo-yo them back to the boat, or burn them for a few yards and suddenly stop, letting them sink. Often the fish will hit as the bait drops. In lakes where the Northerns will hit big muskie baits, try a wooden jerk bait by Odyssey called a “Pig,”"Pig Jr.” or “Piglet.” Just be sure that yiou understand how these baits work. This type of jerkbait falls after being jerked, as opposed to the suspending jerkbaits, which slowly glide to a stop.
December 26th, 2010 at 10:35 am
Fish with the white tube until you catch 2 or 3 bass.Then switch to a small jig or 6″ worm,(black & blue or junebug) catch a few more bass and then switch back to the tube.The small jig, I am talking 1/4 oz or less w/ a trailer.If the bass are hitting the tube on the bottom, only way you will get them to hit a crank bait or spinner bait is to have them bump the bottom.Keep track at what depth you are getting the bites, this could indicate there is a drop and dip there the bass are holding at.Also might try changing colors of the tub.But you are most definitely going to have to change baits.If they are hitting the white tube on the fall they are taking it as a bait fish, then you can try a crank bait or spinner bait.(try and match you spinner bait & crank bait to the same size of the tube)Good Luck
December 26th, 2010 at 10:49 pm
A rooster tail or road runner will work excellently.
December 27th, 2010 at 10:30 am
Senko’s are good. I would have picked a different color for murky water but they could still work. Wacky rig them with a small baitholder style hook or Texas-rig them with a 1/0 worm hook with NO weight, on both the Wacky-rig an Texas-rig. The Senko’s have enough weight to cast, and a long way too, even on M/H Baitcasting equipment.When you’re wacky-rigging them, just let them fall to the bottom, pull them up, and let them fall back down. Keep doing this. Do practically the same thing with the Texas-rig just not as erratically as you would with a wacky-rigged Senko.
December 27th, 2010 at 11:14 pm
seems like everyone thinks aworm will work i agree thats what i would try.maybe live bait minnows etc. good luck