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I’ve been a bit slow on posting reviews of the last couple of Jig Heads, but it’s time to catch up. Overall, the Jig Heads was great, and I have no problem recommending Jig Heads for anyone wanting one.
I LOVE THIS Jig Heads
How do you paint jig heads with Jig Heads color and the eyes on the sides?
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December 11th, 2010 at 4:20 pm
I’ll be honest to tell ya that I have never seen something like that done here. We normally just use a cork/ float ( cajun thunders, cones, balls…) but nothing like a floating jig head. The closest thing I can think of would be a Pompano rig ( http://www.biminibayoutfitters.com/marflarigs.htm ) which uses small floats to keep the bait off the bottom. Maybe you hit on something fresh and new our way. See if you can make some and let us know how it works out for you. It would be interesting to know if these lures would work out as do the ear ball lures which are also used in walleye fishing. we use ‘em for Pompano fishing and Permit. I use ‘em for Snapper and Sea trout. A fresh water idea for a salt water concept…gotta love it. ~good luck catchin’
December 12th, 2010 at 4:00 am
The rattle eye jig head…I would say…since I make and use my own…I call mine…The shaky head jigs and shakes all the way… works every time…
December 12th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
River Smallmouth fishing is something I always would like to do.I would use no lighter than 1/8-ounce but no heavier than 3/8-ounce. I think 1/4-ounce is a good choice for all-around fishing.Oh and just to add on, I have had tremendously good luck on LARGEMOUTH with a 2″ BPS Spring Grub (Brownish looking with black flakes) rigged on a 1/4-ounce Jig Head. I’m sure the same would work very good on Smallmouth too.The lure is ONLY 2″ but is a very fat bait.
December 13th, 2010 at 4:16 am
First, welcome to the world of ultra-light fishing. I hope you get hooked.
The size difference between a 1.5″ grub is a 1″ grub is VERY significant. A 1″ grub is very very tiny (much smaller than I thought it would be). 1/32oz is the heaviest jig head you should use.I can not find a suitable jig head for 1″ grubs in the link you provided because the smallest hook size is 6. A 1/48oz jig head with size 10 hook will be more suitable for 1″ grubs. There are 1/64oz jigs available but those are a little too light and you can not cast very far with those. A bobber or a water bubble will extend the casting distance but I try to stay away from bobbers and water bubbles as much as possible because they will change the action of the grub.Crappie and bluegill will hit same color lures. Do expect your bluegill catch ratio to change when you switch colors but you will still find some bluegills that aren’t as picky. Chartreuse is a very good color and it should work under most conditions. #17 and #57 will be quite versatile too. Colors like #84 and #03 will produce excellent results sometimes (Their performances aren’t as consistent. But when they do work, they will really work.). #02 and #48 aren’t that bad as well.Fishing those tiny grubs is pretty straight forward. You fish them just like bigger sized grubs but not all techniques will work well. A carolina rig won’t work as well with grubs that small. Swimming them with a jig head is probably the best way to go on 1″ grubs. Just to remember to fish slow with those tiny grubs. Size and speed must match.When it comes to tiny grubs, line choice is very important. 4lb test lines will limit your casting distance too much with 1″ grubs. Sink rate of 2lb test and 4lb test mono is different too. So, 2lb test is a must. Picking a 2lb test line won’t be as easy as other test lines. Break strength, shock strength, and knot strength will all become critical. The only 2lb test line currently available that passed my tests without costing an arm and a leg is Berkley Sensithin. I use improved clinch or the trilene knot with with light lines. http://www.animatedknots.com/trilene/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.comYou will also want a limp untra-light spinning rod that doesn’t have too much back bone and a smooth reel. You will get “hit and runs” with stiffer rods. A limp rod with little back bone might give you a second chance. Fish will feel less resistance. As a result, fish won’t drop your lure as easily. It might even hit the lure a second time if it missed the hook the first time. A composite rod is preferred because fiberglass aren’t as sensitive and graphite is a little too stiff.By the way, 1″ tubes (not grubs) will work better on crappie. 1″ grubs will work better on bluegill and sometimes trout. I got a crap load (1000+) of 1″ grubs dirt cheap (under $7 shipped) because nobody wants them. I thought they would be a nice addition to my sabiki rigs but I was wrong. Jig heads in 1/48oz and 1/64oz with small hooks are very hard to find. They do show up on ebay as “left overs” from a custom order from time to time.
December 13th, 2010 at 4:28 pm
Try something like a Gulp turtleback worm in a green pumpkin or a pumpkin seed color on a 3/16oz. texas rig . just try different retrieves and depths the fish will let you know how they want it.
December 14th, 2010 at 4:31 am
This got my attention because normally I would just hand pour…I’m old fashioned what can I say? I did some searching around just out of curiosity and did find something that matched your description. Here’s the link: http://www.tekcast.com/Casting-Machines/c9/index.htmlNot sure if that’s what you’re needing but it does use an air compressor and injects to make molds. ~good luck catchin.’
December 14th, 2010 at 4:37 pm
This is a bit of a strange question, since most marabou jigs are made with a round head. Some quick clarification is in order here…”Round Head” refers to the shape of the lead head on a jig. The most common shape is round, but they come in many other shapes, including flat head (these stand up), darter head (they are tapered to swim through the water), and football head (shaped like…well, a football…they stay on the bottom well and telegraph every rock, stick, and other object well)”Marabou” refers to a particular type of jig dressing that is somewhat ‘feather-like’ and breathes in the water, imitating a live minnow. Other jig dressings include bucktail (deer hair), and rubber bodied jigs (grubs, twister tails, etc)The best way to answer your question is like this…If fish are shy and you need to make a delicate presentation, it’s hard to beat a plain, round jig head with a minnow/leach/nightcrawler.If fish are a little more aggressive, or they are feeding on a larger bait (like in the fall), then using a marabou jig tipped with a minnow/leach/nightcrawler presents a larger bait that would be attractive to larger fish.Hope that helps
December 15th, 2010 at 4:40 am
l have best results with (weedless) football head jigs in the winter. fished very slow.l use 1/2 and 3/4 ounce jigs, usually painted brown, with a skirt in colors to resemble a crayfish. l prefer one with rattles. then l add a soft plastic or pork trailer that has “claws” to complete the resemblance. a chigger craw by berkley of the appropriate size is great. the built-in scent is very good (to a bass) but a bit(?) offensive to human noses. stick with shades of red, orange, green and brown to resemble them craws.besides working for flipping, pitching and as a punch bait (other jig styles are actually better for those but football heads WILL work), they are one of the best baits for winter bass. any of them.simple to fish. cast, take out your slack, let sit for a bit then just move it in slowly by lifting your rod tip. the colder the water, the slower you fish it. as water warms in the spring through the summer, work it faster, with short hops and jumps between pauses. just like a fleeing crayfish.watch your line when you cast as it sinks. fish will hit these many times as it sinks to the bottom. a bushy skirt and large trailer will slow it’s sink rate giving fish a better chance to see and hit it as it sinks.IMHO, brand makes little difference. l buy packs of 3 bare jigs, packs of skirts and rattles from bass pro shop and put mine together in color combos l want at better prices than completed models.one more tip…many of the 99C stores sell bundles of small zip ties. the smallest size makes a great replacement for the rubber band usually holding on the skirt. they rot and the skirt falls apart. just put one of these ties right over or next to the original band. tighten it and clip close.there ya go.
December 15th, 2010 at 4:53 pm
Try the same size jig head and body, but in different colors. Some days they hit the bright colors, but some days they prefer more natural colors. Try white with a black head, and some translucent colors with black heads.Also any type of silver spoon the same size as your jig will work. You might want to keep the same type of lures in different sizes. Baitfish vary in size over the season and the fish tend to target what there’s plenty of.
December 16th, 2010 at 4:18 am
Dunno why you’re getting such odd answers — Y!A Fishing is in a weird mood today, I guess. No, it won’t affect the lure’s performance in terms of the way it swims. A little paint chipped off isn’t going to change the weight or shape enough. However, it does change the appearance, though your lure doesn’t look too bad. The thing I’d worry about is that more and more of the finish will chip off now until it really looks hammered, especially if you hit those rocks again.If you want to extend the lure’s life a little you can touch it up. They make special paint for painting jig heads, but if you don’t want to go through the trouble of finding it and matching the color, you can touch it up with some clear fingernail polish. This might protect the chips and keep them from getting worse in the short term. This is one reason you never, never let kids fish with the lures you really like (smiley face). As to the heaviness of the jig vs. the rod — no, it’s technically not all right. You should fish the tackle that the rod was intended for. Using lures that are too heavy or too light impact the performance of the rod, which will affect the effectiveness of your fishing. For example, you’ll get more casting distance with that lure if you use a heavier rod. Also, you’ll wear your rod down faster by repeatedly casting lures that are too heavy. However, this is not a big deal — most fishing gear these days is reasonably sturdy and will stand up to such treatment. It’s really a matter of getting the best performance possible out of your equipment.
December 16th, 2010 at 4:06 pm
As I can tell by your question, you already know that large and small mouth bass are very picky when it comes to presentation. To answer your question, whatever works. Try different techniques. No one technique will always work. Finding what works is called the pattern, and the pattern changes according to weather conditions, water temperature, moon phase, and several other factors. Using a jig in the wrong conditions will not yield any bass, regardless of the retrieve that you use. Jigs can be fished very slowly when bass are sluggish in cold water. Plus, their compact size matches the smaller forage bass prefer in winter and early spring. Jigs are the best of all bass lures for probing brushpiles, thick weedbeds, submerged trees and other dense cover in shallow water. In cover, they are effective in both cold and warm water. Jigs can be worked slowly down sloping banks and ledges. The rate of fall can be varied by changing the jig weight and/or size of trailer. Fishing pressure can make bass retreat to dense cover and slow to bite. However, a pressured bass can be coaxed into biting a jig presented right in its face. Here are some pointers for working these lures in thick wood or weeds: 1. Rate Of Fall. As a rule of thumb, fish react better to a slower fall in cold/clear water and a faster fall in warm/murky water. To make a jig fall more slowly, you can either use a lighter jig, a bigger pork or plastic trailer, or larger diameter line. To make a jig fall faster, use a heavier jig, switch to a smaller trailer or fish the lure on smaller diameter line. 2. Color. Color is very important in jig fishing. Often fine tuning your color presentation shows immediate, positive results. In muddy water, try combinations of black, chartreuse or pumpkin. In stained water, try black and blue. In clear water, use smoke gray, watermelon or pumpkin. Flake colors also work best in clear water. Use pink in muddy water, white when bass are on a shallow shad bite. 3. Shake It. When working a jig through dense cover, gently shaking the rod tip will provide all the action the lure needs as well as help nudge it out of tight spots so it doesn’t hang up. Avoid tightening down on a jig that’s hung up in branches or grass; it’ll usually stay hung and you’ll have to go in and retrieve it, thereby spooking any fish in the area. Instead, shake the rod tip and the lure will free itself. Many strikes occur as a hung jig works free and scoots away from an object. 4. Focus. When working the jig in dense cover, try to focus on what the jig is doing. You must envision the lure hopping, crawling and nudging its way through and around branches, roots, weeds, etc. Losing this focus will mean missed bites. Set the hook immediately when a bite or and unusual resistance is detected. 5. To Rattle Or Not. The current trend is to use a rattling jig. However, many anglers believe bass can become conditioned to the noise and learn not to bite these lures. In theory, a rattle works best in low visibility water. When in doubt, a quiet jig is always a safe choice.Have fun and tight lines. This is virtually the same as your last question, so I gave the same answer.
December 17th, 2010 at 4:11 am
It doesn’t matter what the wig-jig is. That’s the point of the exercise.
December 17th, 2010 at 4:27 pm
no just thread it onto the hoot let it hang down from the hook so it kind of follows it but it is attached to the hook.