Lures Nip Sources
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This piece will provide you with not just general Lures Nip information but also specific and helpful information. Enjoy it.
My dog won't get in the bathtub?
Ok so my dog Max (A long haired German shepherd, 8 years old) will NOT get in the bathtub. Yes i have tried luring him with treats and pieces of chicken but he won't go. I even got in the tub to try to encourage him. I have tried it with no water and water Lures Nip but either way he won't move. And i don't think he's scared of water or anything, he loves the hose and such. Also i don't know if i wanna try lifting him because he might get scared and nip or something, i also kinda don't wanna wash him outside because it's getting cold. Sorry if im being kinda picky, thanks :)He hasn't really had an actual bath before, i usually just hose him down but he likes to roll in the dirt and he's getting smelly.Also I am considering trying to lift him in, but i am only 14 so i may need some help from my step dad or something (who is sick right now)
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December 8th, 2010 at 10:32 pm
Please try to get yourself into obedience classes ASAP. She doesn’t need the classes – YOU do! Find a positive trainer and you may even find one who will come to see you for a couple weeks until she is no longer in heat and over her surgery. If the obedience class requires dogs to be on leash, her spay surgery will not be a problem providing there are no complications. I have dogs in heat, right after spay/neuter in my classes all the time. I require those in heat wear a diaper. Besides, you can always attend classes to learn without the dog for a week or two. Please don’t lose faith – remember she is a puppy, but you really do have some catching up to do. Puppies in my classes usually start at 2 – 3 months. I am a certified trainer.
December 9th, 2010 at 11:07 am
This is a terrified 4 month old kitten we are talking about, not a tiger. He sounds totally traumatised ! Why did his previous owner ‘get rid’ of him ?Do you know for sure he was loving with her ? Has he ever lived inside a house ? It sounds to me like someone has badly abused him and he has lost all trust in people. He had to come with you, a strange person, to a strange place where there are already resident cats who he sounds terrified of too.You need to let this little cat settle in a room on his own, don’t try to touch him at all.Put his water,litter tray,scratching post, and catnip toys by him and feed him there too. With a badly abused kitten it can take weeks to get him to relax a bit so if you do keep him you will need lots of patience and kindness.You need to talk to him quietly, using his name a lot, he needs to know he can trust you after the bad start of putting him outside in a strange place.He sounds a very unhappy kitten but he is young and you have a good chance to make his life happy now.We actually have a cat next door at my friends who was so badly abused she hid in the bathroom for days when we first rescued her.3 weeks later she is just starting to go out in the cat run with the others, but even so she’s grumbling and hissing,as it’s something new to her.It takes cats a long long time to get used to kindness. Good luck, I hope you can help that poor little cat.
December 9th, 2010 at 11:13 pm
yes cat nip is safe it might be the brand you have. and it should but the cat needs o claw on it a lot if he claws on it a little every day it should also be ok
December 10th, 2010 at 11:23 am
Your wee girls cage is her safety and security. Yes, she is going to be “nice” when she is away from it because everything else terrifies her – not a nice thing to hear, but the truth. You don’t need to destroy her attraction to her cage…you simply need to get her to realize that good things happen when you come out and about with me. All it takes is some quality time spent with her…and even the oldest of tiels are capable of learning trust.Start by pulling up a good chair by her cage, getting out your favorite book, open up that cage door (hopefully the door opens to a platform, but if it doesn’t get a platform perch to set there), pop yourself a big bowl of airpopped popcorn (no salt please), calmly sit, read and munch. Tiels are usually food hounds and within a few days she is going to get curious about what you are eating. Encourage her to come out onto her platform by placing popcorn there or perhaps a big fat millet spray. If you don’t permit millet sprays in the cage for a week or two, she’s going to be eager to partake in this delicacy. Try to do this for at least 30 minutes two to three times a day. Don’t interrupt a nap because a sleepy tiel is a grumpy tiel, but for sure first thing in the morning and again in the mid to late afternoon. Perhaps before bed if time permits.As time passes, she’s going to come out and about on her own quicker and quicker. Once she is coming out almost as soon as you open the door, move the millet (or popcorn bribe) to the top of the cage and encourage her to head on up there. Now you can offer her some drinking straws (most tiels love to play with them) and she’ll toss them overboard, you pick them up. Move the millet again, but this time hold on to it and encourage her to step up onto your hand (hand straight, palm down, fingers curled under to tighten the skin and lessen the impact of a bite – but I doubt you get one). Give her a step up command (I use k’mere)….and before long, she’s going to be leaping onto your hand for her goodies. You can then move her over to the chair you’ve been sitting in and get her comfortable with that environment. Slowly, and I do mean slowly, start to introduce her to other areas…but make sure it is fun for her to be there with either food or a toy or two. This is how I work with my rescues and I’ve not had it fail yet. Some just take a bit longer than others. Keep in mind that tiels are prey birds (they are consumed by other animals) and in the wild a fine sense of danger is a good thing. She is naturally going to be frightened of anything new because she isn’t sure if it is out to eat her or not. Remember this as you introduce new things and new environments.
December 10th, 2010 at 11:11 pm
She is still young and frightened but keep doing what you are and she will come around. Try giving her vegies and fruit only when she is out of the cage. Hand feed them. She may not be eating her seed because she is filling up on vegies and fruit. She may also have developed a taste for them. Cut back on them. Rats don’t care much for small seeds. They much rather have large gray striped sunflower seeds, a few raw peanuts, raw shelled pecans and walnuts, and things like that. But go easy on nuts. They should be used as a treat only since they will cause your rat to become overweight. Lab diet is a much better choice for rats. Supplement this with sunflower seeds (not many) and fruits and vegies. Make sure she has a mineral lick and plenty of fresh water. Might even consider vitamins. A word about wheels. Most are not meant for rats. They are too small and their tails rub the wheel. A rat doesn’t hold it’s tail over it’s back when on a wheel. There are some made for guinea pigs that may work. I never used wheels. My rats got plenty of exercise out of their cages.
December 11th, 2010 at 10:36 am
It’s a little dog. Little dogs hate everyone except their owner. The have the small dog attitude. He will probably get use to you eventually.
December 11th, 2010 at 11:22 pm
I rescued my kitten Rocky from a terrible situation when he was just a tiny kitten. He had never been around people and it was a job to socialize him but he finally came around and became a very loving little guy. After I had him neutered, he acted the same way your kitty is acting. I was scared all my work had been undone. I didn’t force him to be held or petted and just let him come around on his own terms. It took about two weeks. Just be sweet to your kitty and he’ll soon forget all about it. Give him treats and play with him with feather toys and things that don’t require him to get too close to you right now. It will get better. He just needs some time. As we speak Rocky is weaving around my ankles wanting some lovins.
December 12th, 2010 at 11:09 am
I was impressed by your poem, made the imagination work with each word! Well done, interesting to say the least! Cheers!!
December 12th, 2010 at 11:08 pm
Don’t listen to that first comment – he’s an idiot. Forcing your dog in will make his fear worse and he may lash out. It’s about patience and making sure he’s nice & tired first. First… check your drain system. GSD have LOTS of thick hair which may clog your drain if you’re not sure to get every little piece out. If it’s good to go…Take him for a nice long run so he’s relaxed and tired out. I’m not talking about around the block. Go for a nice one hour or more jog, bike ride, or walk – and not a run by himself. You want him to know you’re in charge for this. When he’s good and exhausted take him in to get a drink then upstairs on his leash calmly & close the bathroom door. Since he’s a big dog it also helps to have two people
Put a dark towel on the bottom of the tub then add about 3 inches water. The slippery inside may be part of the problem. Stay to the side of the tub, hold his collar, and gently pull him in. He will pull back, hold firm (not choking), give a little pull and release a little. You may have to lift his front paws up onto the side of the tub or lift his rump in. Once he’s in wait a few minutes just holding him & petting him. Talking to him won’t help, in my experience quiet works better with calm slow movements.Use a cup to pour water over him and do a section at a time, if you have to turn on the faucet leave it on slow to keep it as quiet as possible. When you’re done dry his face first – slowly. Try not to get all crazy like when you towel him from the rain. Let him hop out on the towel than dry the rest of him. Then, give him a cookie when you’re out of bathroom telling him what a good boy he is.If he’s really skiddish, start slow & just get him a little wet (no soap) then finish & praise him. Our latest rescue took weeks of tub training AND we needed a stupid ramp before he’d get in. He’s 60 lbs.Also, depending on where you live they have Pet Washes where you can clean him yourself. Ours is connected to one of those do-it yourself washes. They have large basins with ramps the dog can walk up and a large spray nozzle that switches from water,shampoo, conditioner to dryer.
December 13th, 2010 at 11:05 am
The thing that has worked best for me lately as far as store bought catfish bait is concerned is Dip Bait (also known as Punch Bait). I just get a tub of it from Walmart and some of those Catfish Charlie Dip Bait Worms (be sure to change the leader on the hook though if you get these, I lost a big one to the cheap leader that came with it giving out).Yes, anything you use for cats is going to work better at night. Catfish are nocturnal bottom feeders. You can sometimes catch them during the day, but the easiest time is after dark. If you have to fish during the day, if you chum the area (if it’s not illegal where you live) it will help.Also, minnows, shad, and cut baits particularly are good for catfish. You will have a shot a flathead catfish that way too, because they prefer fish. You might also want to try Chicken livers, they work REALLY well. To keep it on the hook you can wrap it in a piece of pantyhose or wrap sewing thread around it quite a few times.As far as recipes are concerned. Here is a website giving quite a few different punch bait recipes. Many of them sound like they would do the trick.http://www.whiskerkitty.com/catfish_bait_recipes.htmlI hope this helps. Good luck.