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Lures Hook is great. I don’t know what else to say. I was amazed at the quality of Lures Hook and highly recommend that you take a look and see for yourself.
How to remove a trebble hook?
i Lures Hook need some help removing a trebble hook from my lure please.
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December 8th, 2010 at 1:10 am
How about this… $19.99 problem solvedhttp://www.kmdtackle.com/complete-tool-assortment.html
December 8th, 2010 at 1:51 pm
two treble (3 point) hooks equals 6 points. equals okay.unless fishing in waters listed as single hook only.
December 9th, 2010 at 1:37 am
I often fish for walleye and pike also and I find that using Stren Super Strength 8lb braided line is perfect for almost every fish I land, I prefer braided to mono because it seems to break less and doesn’t stretch either. Make sure you use a steel leader because walleye and pike both have pretty gnarly teeth. If your just targeting those two fish I’ve found my best success comes from using spoons, more specifically a yellow spoon with three red dots on it…works like a charm.
December 9th, 2010 at 1:44 pm
I would recommend using WD40. Rub it with a rag you don’t want to use anything abrasive if you don’t have to. If the rust is heavy use as light of an abusive pad as you can get away with. After you clean the rust you can wipe it down with the WD40, the real shouldn’t be getting rusty it you let it dry after you use it in fresh water,if its used in salt water it should always be rinsed with fresh water after use! The reason why WD40 is best to use is because it has rust inhibitors and is made With a fish oil base so it won’t drive the fish away!
December 10th, 2010 at 1:17 am
It really depends on what Bait & Tackle shop and what reel and rod. Large sporting goods stores (like Sports AU, Bass Pro, Gander MT, Cabelas, Etc) generally only make between $20-$60 on ANY baitcast/spinning reel- (excluding large conventional specialty reels like Penn internationals & barstock aluminum, high-end, Fly reels like Abel and Lamson). Why? The big chain’s buy in larger quantity, getting a lower initial price from the distributor, allowing them the ability to sell lower. They don’t make as much on each sale, but they “corner the market” and sell in larger volume. A “Ma & Pa” store can’t afford to buy in such large volume, making them HAVE to mark up their reels and rods to turn a minimum profit. Thats why it’s rare to see a full line of Branded reels and rods at any local B & T stores. On average, a local B & T is lucky to sell all their rod & reel stock per season/year. Rods are approx the same. You just don’t make a lot of money on rods & reels unless your a big chain or a premiere Fly shop. As a small B & T you ALWAYS make more on terminal tackle, Flys and lures. Why? Everyone needs hooks, weights, swivels, lures, etc to go fishing. Not everyone needs a G. Loomis rod and a Stella reel to hit the water…..(lol). Even low end rods/reels work a little while- you don’t need to buy a new one every fishing trip! Hope this info helped ya?
December 10th, 2010 at 1:58 pm
Treble hook is better on lures. It gives a greater chance of hooking the fish, once the strike occurs. It may not have the depth of a single hook, but a single hook will lay against the side of the lure if it is in the front or middle section, and the back would alter the behavior of the lure when fishing it. Treble hooks keep a well maintained balance for performance. It is amazing how much science actually goes into the making a lure. Of course there are people who can just carve a lure and paint it, but the most that are manufactured have gone through extensive testing and machining to give you the optimal opportunity of catching a fish.
December 11th, 2010 at 1:05 am
“Fishing equipment should be placed in your checked baggage. Some tackle equipment can be considered sharp and dangerous. Expensive reels or fragile tackle such as fly’s should be packed in your carry-on baggage.”That’s the excerpt from Pete’s link. In my opinion, that was written by someone that DOES NOT fish…
December 11th, 2010 at 1:45 pm
try a fishfinder rig with clams or bunker. for lures try poppers, swimmers, and bombers
December 12th, 2010 at 1:55 am
I have two different opinions on this one. I have found at times when the fish are aggressive (bass) there are times they will hit any color thrown at them. And almost any lure also. But there are times when they are so picky that the most minute color variation makes a world of difference.So I would have to say there are times it does and times it doesn’t.
December 12th, 2010 at 1:52 pm
Pike (as mentioned above) love spoons such as larger versions of Daredevils but also love Rapalas. try floating rapalas and let them sink pretty deep right along the weed line. that will attract them suckers very well (I recommend using a perch colored rapala because they are native baitfish for the pike). best of luck to you and hope you catch a massive pike!
December 13th, 2010 at 1:01 am
Those “minnows” with a plastic piece in front and 2 hooks on the bottom is called a “crank bait”. You cast and retrieve those lures, and they work good on Large mouth Bass, Spotted Bass, Small mouth Bass, & Crappie.The Green plastic fish and Bass Assassin plastic fish are probably soft “jerk-baits” such as the Zoom Fluke, and can be rigged on a jig head, Texas rigged, or drop shot rigged. Look up those different rigs to find out how to do it. Different hook sizes are in need for different sized plastic lures. The 3″ and smaller plastics will catch some BIG Small mouth Bass and Crappie while the large ones catch some nice sized Large mouth Bass and Pike.
December 13th, 2010 at 1:33 pm
Well now, you want to sell vintage lures for a top dollar, and you are willing to destroy the evidence that makes them worth a collector’s time and effort to id them as vintage? Would you also want to redo Mona Lisa’s smile?How often do you go around shooting yourself in the foot? Leave them as they are. Do not attempt to clean them, or replace anything on them, or try to repaint them, as they shall be worth more to the true collector if they are just properly taken care of in their original package, as the packaging is also valuable in combination with the item. I take it that you have never seen an episode of “The Antique’s Road Show” on PBS. This applies to ALL items of antiquity!If they are without packaging, buy a case to show them in, Use some type of an “E” glass to protect them from sun damage. Speak with professionals at a glass shop. Contact the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame, (I believe it is located in Hayward, Wisconsin, if I am not mistaken.)Good luck & Good fishing
December 14th, 2010 at 1:49 am
Run your hook through the head of the lure with the barb pointing up. Most fish eat snakes head first.
December 14th, 2010 at 1:41 pm
have you tried CLR? it will clean anything
December 15th, 2010 at 1:10 am
What happens is when you just start reeling in you pull the lure out of the fishes mouth. When you get a hit pick up the pole and as soon as you feel a strong tug pull back hard, this will hook the fish. proceed to reel in after this but make sure to keep the pole pointed to the sky not pointed towards the water. It has happened to me that the fish is a one hit wonder but this will be the best way of increasing your chances of hooking one.
December 15th, 2010 at 1:40 pm
It doesn’t exactly “attract” fish, it causes them to “get excited” about eating. It is mainly used on lures to give you a couple extra seconds to “feel” the strike of the fish. Lure attractant also “cover’s up” your own human scent so the fish won’t think your lure is “fishy”,(lol). Good choices are “Baitmate”, “Berkley Powerbait”, “Bang”, “Dr. Juice”, “YUM”.
December 16th, 2010 at 1:14 am
Usually I run the hook through the back behind the head, come out the belly, and then bury the hook back into the tail. This lets you skip along the bottom realistically without snagging.
December 16th, 2010 at 1:48 pm
http://www.anglersresource.org/knots.html this give syou afull list of knots.. the quick knot is a GOOD knot for all situations!